Discovering Malmö, the city with two faces

By Julie Verdier

Marseille Provence Airport offers, using Ryanair, numerous attractive destinations, described according to their best-known characteristics; wild nights in Spain, enchanted Italy... Some of these places, because of their geographical location and climate, are attracting tourists who are quite simply looking for a little exoticism and sunshine. But it would be a pity to miss the opportunity to discover the Nordic cities, such as Malmö, third biggest city in Sweden dating from the 13th century. Malmö’s town centre could be nicknamed “Sweet home”, because of the calm, harmonious atmosphere that reigns over this city, and contrary to all expectations, the warmth of the sun that gives this place its cosy and peaceful appearance, akin to the snug feeling of sitting around the fireside. Malmö owes its serene atmosphere to the purity of its air, provided by the surrounding fields and forests beside which English parks seem to pale into insignificance. This tranquillity, free from any hint of passivity or boredom, feels like stepping into another time where car horns, the harsh shouts of people and the incessant noise of the city are merely distant memories. Here is a fleeting visit…

Malmö: the “green giant” of Scandia

Capital of Scandia, Malmö is a port and commercial city with 251,000 inhabitants, located on the Oresund straight, opposite Copenhagen. Recovering from a period of recession linked to the decline in traditional industries (naval construction, textiles…), it is now becoming a major centre for information technology, biotechnologies, biochemistry and the pharmaceutical industry. The town has also signed a partnership contract with the European Commission as part of the Renewable Energies Campaign. This partnership will begin with the building of an ecological district on the former industrial wasteland in the city’s western port zone. This innovation is designed to be an example of environmental adaptation in an urban zone that currently contains 1100 houses and flats (3000 are planned in the long term) and a profound desire to influence inhabitants to adapt to a more ecological and environmentally respectful future. This new urbanisation project was inaugurated during the European Habitat Fair, the “BO01 Ecological City of Tomorrow” (Bo means habitat in Swedish, 01 signifying 2001) incorporating a grand exhibition of new architecture and housing, and in particular with the presentation of this new, entirely energy self-sufficient district, thanks to the use of renewable energies such as wind turbines. Solar panels, turf roofing, rain water channelling systems, subterranean thermal heating systems, housing for bats; these myriad innovations form the giant panorama of the Bo01 district. This energetic quest to promote the benefits of an ecologically durable society conducive to human fulfilment has been taken up by the whole city. New materials are being used in construction, new architectural styles that make better use of natural light and prevent heat loss through thermal inertia are being selected. Buses use alternative non-polluting fuels, pedestrians and bicycles are given priority on the road networks. The city is immensely proud of its 400 km of cycle paths where citizens of all ages ride along together and in harmony with the cars whose drivers also salute this ecological movement.

Green fingers are to be found everywhere in Malmö in the “ecological” parks and gardens such as the Slottstragarden, known as the “castle garden”. Tulips, pansies, narcissi, 200 types of hardy plants, as well as all kinds of vegetables inhabit this two-hectare green space. This nursery is open to all and free of charge, offering horticulturally-minded Swedes the chance to get their hands in the earth and also to follow training courses to learn how to grow tomatoes or other varieties of vegetables that interest them. Created in 1998 by volunteers, the garden association now has 414 members working to promote ecological gardens. None of the produce is treated with pesticides or chemicals, since the members are aiming for quality rather than quantity. The local authority also supports this project and has allocated a budget of 80,000 euros per year towards its upkeep. In addition, it grants 500,000 euros per year to the City in Bloom project. This year also celebrates the birth of the 18th century botanist Carl Von Linné, author of the Latin names given to all flowers, who was born in Malmö in 1707.  A garden dedicated to introducing young children to gardening is under construction - there are already fifteen children’s parks in the city, inspired by the theme of fairytales. The town is exemplary in getting its young people involved and giving them stimulating perspectives for the future in their studies, their professional careers and their passions.

An undisputed cultural footprint

In 1998, a new University was built for 35,000 students of communication, culture and teacher training, amongst other disciplines. This youth movement has incited the entire city to start thinking of future generations. An enormous concert hall with a 14,000 capacity is due to be finished for winter 2008. Continuing on this theme, many venues have been made available to young people to give them the chance to express themselves through music, painting, or sports, for example the magnificent skate park that is due to play host to the world skate cup between from June 7th to 10th. This vision of the future does not only apply to the young, however. Swedish culture and design are also following in this innovative spirit. It is a joy to discover different worlds through the multitude of museums and permanent or temporary exhibitions on offer here: the museum of technology where children can experience simulations of submarines, aeroplanes and cars, the museums of modern and natural history… Contemporary art and design fans will be delighted to discover the “Malmö Konsthall”, contemporary art centre that is currently hosting a temporary exhibition called “The first time of my life” in which the concept is to choose your life behind each door presented in the centre. They will be impressed by the “Form Design Center”, on the famous Lilla Torg square, where Scandinavian design and architecture exhibitions combine audacity, ingenuity, a taste for detail and a subtle play on colour, enough to make the heart soar and to thrill the senses. An exhibition of Russian art has opened at the enchanted Malmohus castle as an echo to the “Baltic” universal exhibition of 1914.

Lovers of Swedish past can immerse themselves in history thanks to Kulturen in the City of Lund, located a quarter of an hour from Malmö. This is the largest museum in Scandia and one of the oldest open-air museums in the world. Inaugurated in 1892, The Swedes have lovingly maintained it ever since, preserving their traditional culture and traditions for time immemorial, showing how people have lived and worked in Sweden over the years. There are fifteen “windows” on the worlds of Scandian people from peasants to artisans and industrial design. Temporary exhibitions also illustrate current issues. A veritable oasis for all those who love a harmonious natural environment, Kulturen is a true discovery of Scandia. Preserving the past has not prevented Malmö planning for the future; The Turning Torso proves this with its futurist innovative design. This 190 metre skyscraper has 54 floors and comprises 147 apartments from 45 m2 to 190 m2 and represents the city’s desire for modernity. Made from nine cubes piled one on another and arranged in a twisting motion from bottom to top around a reinforced concrete structure, the tower gives an impression of sculpture in movement, ready to spring back to its initial position at any moment. Built on the docks of the Oresund straight, opposite Copenhagen, capital of Denmark, Santiago Calatrava’s tower is the second highest in Europe, and the highest in Scandinavia. This unusual building sums up Scandia’s desire for expansion and openness to the outside world.

Modernising without destroying the past

Malmö, at the crossroads of culture and a truly cosmopolitan city – over a hundred languages are spoken here and a third of the inhabitants are 1st or 2nd generation immigrants – belongs to the Swedish department of Scandia, unified some 15,000 years ago by the ice melt and considered as an extraordinary canvas featuring its palette of colours of the rainbow. Famous for its lush green forests, the deep blue of its lakes, its sparkling white beaches and its flamboyant red poppy fields, Scandia is the precious stone of the Oresund region, the most dynamic of northern Europe. A bridge, completed on 1st July 2000, now links it to Copenhagen, attracting large numbers of Danish visitors to Malmö where life is considerably cheaper. This eight kilometre bridge straddles the Oresund straight, connecting Malmö in Sweden to the Danish capital Copenhagen. Suburban trains and main lines to Stockholm, Göthenburg, Oslo and Hamburg pass over the bridge.
Malmö’s new status as a must-see city has inspired its authorities to build a new train tunnel called the “City tunnel” in 2005, making it considerably more commercially attractive. The tunnel starts from the central station of Malmö where a train line will connect with another line crossing the bridge over the Oresund, stopping off at Triangeln (The Triangle), a large city square with numerous commercial and cultural attractions. At the tunnel’s exit, a new shopping centre, a sports centre and a hotel are to be built. Its three airports as well as its connections with the main Baltic ferry ports also contribute to building Malmö’s new role as a pivotal centre of southern Swedish commerce. Whilst the city preserves its past and traditions, the façades of the houses are hints to Germanic influences with the use of ceramics extracted from the clay-rich earth, faintly reminiscent of English cottages. Malmö is opening up and positioning itself as a vital commercial, tourist and cultural hub.